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Vermicomposting
Composting is a natural process where kitchen and yard wastes decompose into a dark, nutrient rich, earth-smelling soil conditioner. Perhaps you've considered backyard composting but live in a high-rise or don't relish the thought of tramping through your garden in the middle of a winter blizzard. If so, vermicomposting is the option for you.
What is vermicomposting?
Vermicomposting is simply composting with worms. The best kind of earth worm
to use is the redworm. These worms are incredible garbage eaters! They eat
and expel their own weight every day; even a small bin of redworms will yield
pounds of rich sweet-smelling compost. Finished compost can be harvested in
as little as two to three months. Redworms (a.k.a. “red wigglers”)
are extremely prolific. It takes about three weeks for fertilized eggs to
develop in a cocoon from which two or more young worms can hatch. In three
months the worms are sexually mature and will start breeding. Within a year
you'll be able to give worms away to get a friend started!
For 1 or 2 people a plastic bin can be purchased from a hardware store. Make sure the bin has a lid.
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How Do I Set Up The Bin?
Make sure 8-10 holes (approx ¼”) are drilled in the bottom of
the bin for adequate drainage. Line the bottom with fine nylon mesh to prevent
the worms from escaping. Raise up the bin on some type of blocks with a tray
underneath. Now you need to think about bedding for the worms. Redworms can
survive and breed in many kinds of bedding materials. The “red wiggler”
is a manure worm and will eat its own bedding. Materials such as fall leaves
(best if shredded), shredded paper (newspaper is ok), straw, ground cardboard,
aged animal manures, or peat moss can all be used (make-sure to mix peat moss
with other bedding, as is too acidic to use alone). It is important to keep
the bedding as moist as a well-wrung sponge. Bedding can be mixed, e.g., half
shredded paper, half peat moss. Add a few handfuls of soil or finished compost.
Now comes the fun part, getting the worms!
Where Can I Get Redworms?
You may also find a commercial source of redworms in your area by checking
the Yellow Pages under the heading “fishing bait.” Be sure to
ask for redworms or red wigglers. In nature, redworms can be found in decaying
leaves, manure piles or other organic material, such as compost piles. If
you have access to such areas, you can collect your own redworms. A few handfuls
are enough to start a bin, but add only small amounts of food scraps until
the worm population increases enough to handle more (3-4 months).
What do I Feed Them?
Worms will eat just about any type of kitchen waste including vegetables,
fruits, coffee grinds, tea bags and eggshells (crushed). Do not add meat or
meat byproducts. Bury the food scraps completely, so that they are always
covered by bedding; this prevents development of odors and fruit flies. Don't
add more food scraps than the worms eat in several days. The worms can't eat
the food until it starts to decompose, so it may take a few months for the
bin to get up to speed. For fastest decomposition, chop the food scraps into
small pieces.
Can Worms live Outside During Colder Momths?
Worms prefer temperatures between 40 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If you live
in an apartment building they can live quite happily out on the balcony until
temperatures drop to 40 degrees. After that they should be taken indoors.
Basements or garages that don't freeze are good locations for worm bins.
How Can I Harvest the Finished Compost?
After about 3 months you'll notice that the volume of materials has dropped
substantially and the original bedding is no longer recognizable. At this
point the finished compost and worms can be moved over to one side of the
bin and new bedding added to the vacant side. Put new food wastes into the
fresh bedding only so the worms will move from the finished compost in search
of new food. After two weeks or so remove the lid under a bright light source.
The worms are sensitive to light and will burrow away from it. Scoop out the
finished compost a few layers at a time and place in a plastic bag until you're
ready to use it.
This fact sheet was originally produced as part of Compost Ontario, a project run by the Recycling Council of Ontario with funding from Barclay Recycling Inc. and the Ontario Ministry of the Environment.
It is being distributed by the Massachusetts Department of Environmental Protection Composting Program by permission of the Recycling council of Ontario.
This bin is sized to suit a family of four-six people generating about seven pounds of food waste each week.
Materials:
1½” sheet of plywood
1 12' 2x4
1 16' 2x4
2 lbs. 6d galvanized nails
1½ lb. 16d galvanized nails
2 galvanized door hinges
Note: Do not use wood that has been pressure-treated or treated with toxic
preservatives. Non-toxic wood preservatives are available.
Tools:
Tape measure, skill saw or rip hand saw, hammer, saw horses, long straight
edge or chalk snap line, screwdriver, and drill with ½” bit.
Use eye and ear protection.
Measure and cut plywood as indicated in figure above. Cut the 12 foot 2x4 into five pieces: two 39”, two 23”, and one 20” long. Nail the 2x4s together on edge with two 16d nails at each joint as illustrated in the base frame diagram. Nail the plywood base piece onto the 2x4 frame.
Cut four 1-foot lengths out of the 16 foot 2x4. Take each plywood side piece and place a one foot 2x4 under each of its ends so that the 2x4 is flush with the top and side edges of the plywood, and nail the boards into place. Nail the side pieces onto the base frame. To complete the box, nail the ends onto the base and sides. To reinforce the box make sure there is a nail staggered at least every 3 inches wherever plywood and 2x4s meet. Drill twelve 1/2” holes through the bottom of the box for drainage.
To build the lid, take the remaining 12 foot 2x4 and cut it into two 45” pieces and two 20” pieces and lay them flat, short pieces on the inside as indicated in diagram above, so that the plywood top is inset from the edges of the 2x4 by 1-1/2” all the way around the perimeter. Nail the plywood onto the 2x4 securely. Place the hinges on the backside of the box at both ends on the 2x4s, and on the under side of the 2x4 lid frame, so that the lid wilt stand upright when opened.
For a smaller bin (to accommodate a smaller family) you can either reduce the measurements given above to make a container roughly half the length of the one described above, or you can take a much simpler approach and use Tupperware.
Take a large Tupperware bin, at least 2 cubic feet in capacity, and drill holes in the top (for ventilation) and the bottom (for drainage). Nail the bin on to two 2x4s to create a stand for it. When you bring this bin inside for winter, simply place it on top of a large cookie sheet for it to drain onto.
Adapted from a pamphlet produced by the Community Composting Education Program in Seattle, and distributed by Compost Ontario, as well as information by the Seattle Tilth Association designed for their Community Education Program. For more information about work composting and bin sizing, refer to Worms Eat My Garbage by Mary Appelhof. Flower Press, Michigan, 1982.
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Unless otherwise noted, all material is ©2003 EarthWorks
Projects Inc.